Stems

For comfort, performance and more-than-a-little bling, we stock an assortment of high-quality stems from Thomson, Paul, Ritchey, Nitto and more.

Getting the right stem is one of the first ways we dial in cockpit fit here at Off Course. Beyond just joining the handlebar to the steerer tube, it dictates reach and posture, and ultimately the quality of your ride.

Consider these factors when selecting a stem…

Length:

The length of the stem is measured from the centre of the top cap to the join of the stem’s clamp / face-plate. By elongating the stem, you lean your posture further forward. By shortening the stem, you pull the handlebars (and your posture) inward.

Angle: The angle of the stem is measured from an axis perpendicular to the steerer tube of the fork. This means a 0 degree stem would protrude at a precise right-angle to the steerer tube. By changing the angle of your stem, you can make your posture more relaxed or more aggressive, as the angle is reversible. That is, a “17 degree stem” can be either 17 degree steeper, or 17 degrees more upright.

Clamp diameter:
This is the diameter of the stem’s clamping surface where it meets the handlebar. There are many common sizes.

Stems can be further differentiated into two families: Quill, and threadless.

Quill stems:
Quill stems are more common on older bicycles, particularly those with 1″ front forks. By utilising a single bolt at the apex of the stem, connected to a wedge at the bottom, the stem is snugly secured inside the fork.

Threadless stems:
Threadless stems are seen on virtually all modern bicycles, and use two clamping bolts to fix the stem to the fork, while a preload bolt at the top-cap applies pressure to the headset bearings.