Complete Wheels

Complete wheels represent a cost-effective alternative to our handbuilt options, and we keep several options from brands we love working with such as DT Swiss, Alex Rims and Novatec. If you’re looking to get a distinct upgrade on your bike without breaking the bank, the value-for-money from these wheels is a great way to go.

When selecting wheels for your bike, there are some key criteria you can bear in mind, which we unpack below:

Rim diameter:
This is the first consideration. The diameter of a wheel rim will influence elements of the bike such as tire clearance and handling. On rim-brake bikes, it is usually specific to the bike, and cannot be changed from the wheel diameter the bike was designed for. On disc brake bikes, you can often change wheel diameter, especially if you want multiple wheelsets to broaden the capabilities of a single bike. Rim diameters masquerade under a couple of different naming-systems, deriving from different countries of origin. This will either be a direct outer diameter in millimetres (622), a number followed by a letter (700c), or an inch measurement relating to the tire, not the rim itself (So-called 28″ or 29″ tires both mount to a 622mm AKA 700c rim). We’re aware… it’s a bit confusing.

Disc or Rim Brake:
Disc brake wheels will have an area on the hub for a disc rotor to attach, and will not have a braking surface on the rim. Rim brake wheels, conversely, do have a braking surface running along the rim, and do not have any area to attach a disc rotor at the hub.

Rim internal width:
The internal width of a rim refers to the measurement in millimetres from one side of the rim’s inner “valley” to the other. Different rim internal widths will have an optimum range of tire widths they’re designed to accommodate. For example, mountain bikes using 2.6″” tires may use rims with a 30mm internal width, while road bikes geared around super skinny tires might use a rim in the region of 16mm. Consult this handy tire-sizing chart for a guide.

Frame and Hub Compatibility:
Different bike frames are designed or “spaced” at the front and rear ends for certain width hubs.
There are a range of spacings, so check your bike’s specifications to make sure you get the right wheels for it.

Quick-release, bolt-on, or Thru-axle:
Wheel hubs will either use a solid axle (which is secured to the frame by a pair of bolts), an axle with a narrower quick-release skewer running through it, or thru-axles, which run through the hub and thread into the frame or fork itself.

Freehub or Freewheel:
Unless you’re running a single-speed specific wheel, wheels have a freehub driver or freewheel onto which the gears are fixed. Freewheels are rarer, though still seen on older bikes. In this setup, the gears and the mechanism by which they engage with the wheel are one single entity, and thread onto the hub directly. On modern bikes, it is more common for a hub to have a freehub (containing a mechanism for driving or coasting), onto which a cassette slots before being secured in place by a lockring. When shopping for wheels, decide which option suits you, and if you go for a freehub, select the freehub which is broad enough for the cassette you wish to run (this will be stated in the product’s description).
There are three main types of freehub driver: HyperGlide (AKA HG or sometimes just “Shimano”), and on some higher-end options, SRAM XD or XDR, and Shimano MicroSpline. They differ in design, and what cassettes they will accomodate.

Obviously, this is a heap to consider, and we’re just scratching the surface. To discuss the influence of spoke count, lacing pattern, rim material and more, get in touch with us here at Off Course and we’ll be more than happy to nerd out with you.